After spending a few days in the middle of the Atlantic (read all about our trip to the Azores here) we were off to explore mainland Portugal.  I’ve been to Portugal back in 1997 when I was studying aboard in Spain but did not remember much of it so was really excited about checking out this country.  As always, we were faced in a dilemma – there was a lot to see and not enough time to see it all.  After spending many hours of research and putting together an itinerary (done by my husband) and several tweaks to this itinerary (done by me) we came up with a great plan for our Portugese road trip.

After spending our first night in Lisbon (where we had a super fun photoshoot in Alfama) we picked up a car and headed to Evora, a UNESCO heritage town known for its narrow cobble stoned streets and Roman ruins.  It is pretty close to Lisbon (maybe a two hour drive?) and definitely worth a visit.

The morning after, we were off to Duoro Valley.  We contemplated driving through Spain but then followed advice of a super cool guy we met the night before and headed to Marvao – which is a really pretty walled town with a cool looking wall that we promptly named the Great Wall of Portugal.

Next up was Monsanto, which is known for ginormous boulders around which the whole town was built.  It looks literally like a Flinstones village:)

We arrived at Duoro Valley just as the sun was setting over vineyards – that was pretty awesome!  The next day we drove to Pinhao where we took a cruise along Duoro river – really nice and relaxing – definitely recommend.  And then headed up the vineyards to Armamar – a tiny hilltop village that has one of the best restaurants we ate at during the trip!

After 2 nights in Duoro we were off to Porto where we explored old town, walked across the bridge and sat and took in great views.

And then it was time to drive back to Lisbon.  We stopped by Sintra on the way back – were planning to visit less touristy Initiation Well but due to my sub-par navigation skills and Sintra’s one way streets (where one wrong turns means a 20 minute detour) we gave up on the idea going there and instead ended up visiting really touristy Pena Palace.  It was crowded and hot but so colorful and definitely worth the visit!

We had a few days in Lisbon where we just relaxed, walked all over town, had great meals and took a whole lot of photos!

PRACTICAL INFO

Hotels

Lisbon

We wanted to be right in the middle of things and after a lot of research we decided to stay in Baixa.  Our first night we stayed at Brown’s Downtown and I would stay there again and again.  It was smack in the middle of all the action on a pedestrian street, our room was beautiful – roomy and modern and they had THE BEST breakfast at the restaurant next door.

When we came back to Lisbon at the end of the trip we stayed at Corpo Santo Historic Hotel.  This was rated as a number one hotel on tripadvisor so I knew we had to check it out.  This place was pretty awesome.  Location wise I liked Brown’s a bit better – this hotel was closer to the ocean and a tiny bit further from all the action of Baixa.   But overall the whole experience was amazing – the rooms were great, the service was impeccable, breakfast was delicious and there were so many nice perks like a complimentary  city tour led by a concierge,  water bottles, popcorn and snacks around the clock, ice-cream from an ice cream shop next door, etc.  I would definitely staying there if you are looking for a place in Lisbon

Evora

In Evora we stayed at a heritage hotel – Pousada Convento Évora.  This hotel is located in a converted convent and all guest rooms are rooms formally occupied by nuns!  We upgraded to a suite and figured that a head nun stayed there – it was really nice and roomy (two rooms) and had the most beautiful craw foot tub!  Breakfast was served in the courtyard and what a breakfast it was!   And if that was not enough the location of the hotel could not have been more perfect – it was literally right next to roman ruins and a beautiful cathedral – main sights of Evora.  So if you are planning a trip to Evora (and if you are not – you SHOULD) – do yourself a favor and book a room at this hotel!

Duoro Valley

Ever since I found out about Portuguese wine country I knew that we had to stay at one of many ‘wine hotels’ they have there.  After hours and hours of research I finally booked us a wine barrel at Quinta Da Pacheca.    Yes you read that right – we stayed in a wine barrel located literally in the middle of the vineyard.  It was one of the coolest places we stayed at and I definitely recommend staying in one!  We did a wine tasting tour and stomped some grapes!  So if you buy a bottle of Quinta Da Pacheca made in 2018 – you know what it tastes so good:)

Porto

In Porto we stayed at a small B&B called InPatio Guest House – it was number one on tripadvisor in the B&B category and I can definitely see why – this place was great!  It was pretty small – only about 7 rooms or so and run by a husband and wife team.  The place was beautifully made (the bathroom in our room was ginormous), had really nice toiletries and a gourmet multi course breakfast!  And the location was pretty perfect as well!

Restaurants

I take my meals very seriously and spend as much time researching restaurants as I do researching hotels.  Here are some of our favorite ones:

Lisbon

The CorkScrew Wine Bar – located in the old town – Alfama I believe – this place is not your typical Portuguese restaurant.  It is tiny, they play jazz instead of fado, they serve cheese and wine – what’s not to love?

100 Maneiras Restaurant  – I was looking for a nice meal for our last night in Lisbon and was able to get a reservation this Michelin rated place close to old town.  It was a long multi course and multi hour affair – really creative dishes and great service.  Was it our favorite meal ever?  Not even close… but if you are looking for a funky creative dinner experience – check them out.

Time Out Market – if you do one thing in Lisbon you gotta check out Time Out Market.  This is such a happy happy place! It is similar to Chelsea market in NYC but only better!   Lots of top rated michelin star rated chefs have stalls there – and you can walk around and buy and eat all that yummy food!   I ended up buying crispy suckling pig from Henrique Sa Pessoa and it was to die for!  We also bought a whole lot of pastels de Nata from Manteigaria, which is considered by many to be one of the best Pastel de Nata places!

Evora

Botequim Da Mouraria – this place is tiny – and I mean it – TINY – I think there are literally 8 or 9 seats there.  We lucked out as we got there right after the lunch rush and were able to get two seats at the bar.  The owner/chef was great – walked us through the menu and kept us entertained.  Definitely worth checking out!

Taberna Tipica Quarta Feira – another really highly rated family run place – it is also pretty small so reservations are A MUST.  There is no menu – food just comes out as they cook it.  Service was great and very personal and we got a hand written thank you note at the end of the meal!

Fabrica dos Pasteis – we stumbled upon this bakery and of course had to check it out.  I got Paste De Nata and cherry liquier in a chocolate shot glass – and it was glorious!

Duoro Valley

We had two dinners at the restaurant at Quinta De Pacheca – it was high end with great service and good food.  I would not go out of my way to have a meal there but if you are staying at their property this is definitely a great option.

My favorite meal there was lunch we had at Fonte Nova in Armamar – I STILL think about it.  Everything about this meal was amazing – views of vineyards, flavorful dishes and my favorite part – ALL-YOU-CAN-EAT-SELF-SERVE Serrano Ham that was COMPLIMENTARY!!!

And that’s all folks!  If you are planning a trip to Portugal, looking for must visit restaurants and must see places hope you find this post helpful!